#Stock crack repair cracked

Do not shoot that gun or you will make the crack worst as this is a very high stress area. This is an easy repair that I have done my fair share of. This rifle doesn't have a barrel recoil lug. It does have a crossbolt behind the recoil lug. I thought about maybe a piece of thread all screwed thru the wrist side to side in the middle of the wrist just as a safeguard but I know very little about working a stock. My main issue is I am gonna inlet the rear tang some cause it is a real close stock to tang fit and also there is a maybe 1 inch crack only up top and it doesn't open when I try and flex the stock a little but I don't wanna go use this rifle then make the crack worse. I got a nice condition interarms whitworth express rifle in 375H&H with QD rings and a vari x 3 1.5-5x20 for a song and once I got it home and pulled it from the stock I noticed it used to have a lead chunk under the barrel in the stock to add weight but it has since been chewed out ( I say chewed because it looks horrible) anyhow I am gonna bed it so no worries there. Let me start by saying I just wanted to get some info before I start. What is more important is that the repaired section matches exactly the shape and contour of the surrounding wood.Ok I know I worded that horribly. Exact color match is not critical as this is wood. Unless I were refinshing both forestock and buttstock, I would refinish just the repaired section or it won't look right. Razor off hardened Acraglas, sand, and refinish, either the section or the whole piece. Wipe off excess so as not to interfere with forestock fit.ĭon't be concerned with a litlle Acraglas oozing out. Fill with more Acraglas to completely cover the metal. Force Acraglas into the relieved section(s). I also like to rough up the metal with the Dremel with grinding stone attachment to give the Acraglas more to grip. To prevent this, you must go to the interior surface of the crack, Dremel out a crosswise channels about 1/2 inch long in 2 or 3 locationsalong the crack, deep enough to fully accept a piece of metal - piece of common nail of 1/8' or 5/32' is strong emough. That is why so many guns with wood repairs have cracks coming through the surface of the finish. Acraglas will fill the crack temporarily, but over time, the wood will still flex and crack through the finish. I can help you as I have paid the learning costs. Any repair specialists out there? :?: Thanks, Art Any suggestions? Any help is much appreciated. I have this basic plan of repair, as I don`t believe that I can find an original replacement wood set. I also have some oil to rejuvinate wood, but know that epoxy will not stick to wood with oil on it or in it. I have masking tape to put on each side of the crack, before I try to fill it with epoxy.

I have some acraglass, and was told by Brownells that acrylic paint tint could be used to color acraglass, so I got some raw umber and red oxide to mix togeather to form a redish brown tint for the epoxy. The finish around the outside of the crack is original and almost perfect. There is maybe a 1/64' gap at the end of the crack, and I think it was caused simply by the wood drying out. The forearm wood is thick, and cannot be squeezed back togeather.

#Stock crack repair cracked

The forearm is cracked in the front end about 3' long. My wife bought me an apparently rare model 91 Winchester 12ga.